Tbird100636
10-25-2008, 10:58 PM
Here's a few pointers for Cummins owners wanting to do their own oil change. Most are year specific.
On all years:
-Make sure you fill the oil filter with around 1 qt. of the total refill capacity. Prevents a totally dry start.
-The oil filter is best loosened from underneath with a oil filter claw and extension, unless some goob who did it last change over-tightened it. Then the best way to do it would be an oil filter nylon strap.
For 1989-2002:
-Remove filter from up top, after loosening underneath as previously described. Loosen the air tube hose clamp at the turbo inlet, then un-clip the air box lid, then lift and twist the lid and tube off the box and turbo. (Perfect time to check air filter!!!) Rotate filter off and lift out. (Don't spill oil on the paint!!!) As stated before, fill the filter with oil, then install on the engine. It will be a little heavier with the oil in it, but just have dry hands and use both hands to tighten. One to support the filter, one to twist it on or at least get it started. Tighten till gasket contacts, then 1/2 turn. Re-install air cleaner lid and tube.
For 2003 and newer:
-Loosen and remove filter from below, as removing the bulky air resonator tube to the turbo is a pain in itself. Make sure the filter is started before tightening.
Oil capacity notes:
-All 12 Valve diesels seem to vary. Most take 12 quarts, but some have taken 11 quarts. Fill with 11 quarts, then start engine and let it idle. Shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes. Then check the oil level.
-All 1998 to 2002 24 Valve diesels take 11 quarts.
-All 2003 to present 24 Valve Common Rail Diesel take 12 quarts.
-When draining the oil on 1989-2001 engines be aware that the oil will start draining as soon as the plug is loosened. This can make things messy when trying to remove the plug. 2002 they changed the design of the plug, so oil wouldn't drain until the plug is actually removed.
-Be aware once that drain plug is completely out, it drains hard and fast!!! Have a drain pan that will hold 12 quarts.
-On 1998-2002 24 Valve diesels, there is a crankcase draft tube bottle that collects oil on the front cover. You have to empty this EVERY oil change. Remove the 9MM nut holding the bottle to a front cover stud, loosen the knurled cap and slip the bottle off. Don't tip it until your ready to empty it. Empty and re-install. Not emptying it can cause it to overfill and spill onto the front of the engine, the front axle, and on the ground. Some of these had the draft tube relocated off of the lifter valley cover as a TSB for 4WD's that operate at extreme angles with the back of the truck higher than the front. Before the TSB, there was a customer at my Dodge dealer just complaining of the diesel smell from the A/C vents, and we relocated the draft tube just like the TSB.
-Oil grade is 15W40 Diesel. On 6.7L it has to be low ash, as this affects emission system performance. Synthetic oil can be used, as long as it's low ash on 6.7L. Chrysler recommended 5W40 for synthetic on newer stuff.
Any questions??? Please ask if needed.
On all years:
-Make sure you fill the oil filter with around 1 qt. of the total refill capacity. Prevents a totally dry start.
-The oil filter is best loosened from underneath with a oil filter claw and extension, unless some goob who did it last change over-tightened it. Then the best way to do it would be an oil filter nylon strap.
For 1989-2002:
-Remove filter from up top, after loosening underneath as previously described. Loosen the air tube hose clamp at the turbo inlet, then un-clip the air box lid, then lift and twist the lid and tube off the box and turbo. (Perfect time to check air filter!!!) Rotate filter off and lift out. (Don't spill oil on the paint!!!) As stated before, fill the filter with oil, then install on the engine. It will be a little heavier with the oil in it, but just have dry hands and use both hands to tighten. One to support the filter, one to twist it on or at least get it started. Tighten till gasket contacts, then 1/2 turn. Re-install air cleaner lid and tube.
For 2003 and newer:
-Loosen and remove filter from below, as removing the bulky air resonator tube to the turbo is a pain in itself. Make sure the filter is started before tightening.
Oil capacity notes:
-All 12 Valve diesels seem to vary. Most take 12 quarts, but some have taken 11 quarts. Fill with 11 quarts, then start engine and let it idle. Shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes. Then check the oil level.
-All 1998 to 2002 24 Valve diesels take 11 quarts.
-All 2003 to present 24 Valve Common Rail Diesel take 12 quarts.
-When draining the oil on 1989-2001 engines be aware that the oil will start draining as soon as the plug is loosened. This can make things messy when trying to remove the plug. 2002 they changed the design of the plug, so oil wouldn't drain until the plug is actually removed.
-Be aware once that drain plug is completely out, it drains hard and fast!!! Have a drain pan that will hold 12 quarts.
-On 1998-2002 24 Valve diesels, there is a crankcase draft tube bottle that collects oil on the front cover. You have to empty this EVERY oil change. Remove the 9MM nut holding the bottle to a front cover stud, loosen the knurled cap and slip the bottle off. Don't tip it until your ready to empty it. Empty and re-install. Not emptying it can cause it to overfill and spill onto the front of the engine, the front axle, and on the ground. Some of these had the draft tube relocated off of the lifter valley cover as a TSB for 4WD's that operate at extreme angles with the back of the truck higher than the front. Before the TSB, there was a customer at my Dodge dealer just complaining of the diesel smell from the A/C vents, and we relocated the draft tube just like the TSB.
-Oil grade is 15W40 Diesel. On 6.7L it has to be low ash, as this affects emission system performance. Synthetic oil can be used, as long as it's low ash on 6.7L. Chrysler recommended 5W40 for synthetic on newer stuff.
Any questions??? Please ask if needed.